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The delightful town of Zichron Ya’akov

Zichron Ya’akov was one of the first Jewish agricultural settlements in Palestine. It was established during the First Aliyah in 1882 by 60 settlers from Romania who were members of the Zionist movement Hovevei Zion. Because of their lack of agricultural experience, harsh conditions and financial difficulties, they and the settlements of Rosh Pina and Rishon LeZion were almost ready to give up. An appeal was made to Baron Edmond de Rothschild in France to save them, and he responded favorably to their requests. The establishment of the agricultural and industrial base of Jewish settlement in Palestine now became his personal project. Over time he would support 42 new settlements, of which Zichron Ya’akov was one of his favorites. Walk down the delightful pedestrian mall of Derech Hayayin, with its original houses, museums, stores, cafes and restaurants, and Hanadiv St. and you will be transported 130 years from the beginnings of Zichron Ya’akov to its success. Other sites in the area around Zichron Ya’akov are also well worth a visit.

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The conditions were extremely difficult for the 60 settlers who arrived to the location known as Zammerin, which is a bit higher up the hill than the present historic section of Zichron Ya’akov. A significant number of settlers died from malaria their first year, including many children. They faced resistance from Turkish officials and also their Arab neighbors. They had no previous experience in agriculture. Not surprisingly, many were prepared to return to Eastern Europe. The settlement was saved by Baron Edmond de Rothschild with a massive infusion of financial aid. At the urging of the Baron, the settlement was also moved down the hill to its present location on Founders Street and renamed after the Baron’s father, James (Ya’akov).  

 

One of the conditions of the Baron was that each settler deed away his property and land to him. In return, he built each family a home. These had an elongated structure, and one passed from one room to the next. They are therefore somewhat similar to each other in appearance.

Each property also included a courtyard and a structure for farming equipment and storage at the back. These features can be seen in some of the original buildings. Each settler was provided with a monthly salary while working the land. The expectation was that they would buy back their properties when they were financially secure. The Baron also provided the settlement with a synagogue, schools, water resources, and agricultural assistance. The administration of the settlement was overseen by an administrator appointed from outside the settlement by the Baron. However, there were significant tensions between his administrators and settlers throughout the Baron’s enterprise. The Baron also developed a wine industry in Zichron Ya’akov and Rishon LeZion. This became one of the largest in the world, and still functions as the Carmel-Mizrahi Winery. It remains a leading Israeli winery in terms of the amount of grapes processed, although the winery is now moving from Zichron Ya’akov. The Baron supported the settlement for almost 20 years until it became self-supporting.

WALKING THROUGH ZICHRON YA'AKOV

 

  • Start your walk by the arch at the entrance of HaMeyasdim St., or Founders St., often referred to as "Yishai Gate," and which functions as a symbolic gateway to the town's historic center.

 

An arch was initially constructed for a visit of Baron de Rothschild, but this was not a permanent structure. This present arch is named after Yishai Shibovsky, who served as the head of the Zikhron Ya'akov local council for approximately 30 consecutive years. During his tenure, this town was transformed into one of the leading settlements in Israel. The arch marks the beginning of Derech HaYayin, or Wine Road, a reconstructed area that preserves the architectural characteristic of Baron de Rothschild's colonies, including restored facades, wooden window frames, tiled roofs, and stone fences.

 

Just before the arch, to your right, is Yad LaMeyasdim Garden (גן יד למייסדים), a peaceful memorial park to the founders of this settlement, and its satellite villages, Bat Shlomo and Meir Shfeya established in 1968. At the heart of the garden stands a round white building designed to resemble a Torah scroll. This structure houses a small museum that showcases photographs and artifacts depicting the early life of the settlers. The painting on the door is based on an early photograph of the village. Notable among the exhibits is a Torah scroll that the early settlers once pawned for food, highlighting the hardships they endured. The museum is usually locked and you will need a guide with a key to open it. However, you can certainly examine the open end of this scroll-shaped building that has a ceramic frieze featuring figures and names of the founders. Note that their necks are not attached to their bodies, perhaps indicating that their heads were in the sky! The garden itself has manicured lawns, flower beds, and trees, providing a tranquil setting for reflection and relaxation.

 

  • On the other side of the road is the first cemetery of Zichron Ya’akov. Its entrance is usually open in the daytime. Dozens of graves of infants and children bear silent testimony to the hardships of the early years. No names appear on the graves of infants who died when they were less than a week old. In another section, a green metal fence surrounds the graves of Sarah Aaronsohn and her mother, Malka. Near the cemetery entrance is a memorial plaque for Sarah’s brother Aaron, who died in a plane crash in 1919.

  • Continue past the arch. A number of the buildings are original homes from the early 1880s. They are marked with signs.

 

Buildings 22 and 24 are original buildings and in their yards are collections of original agricultural implements. 

 

#30 is the Hershkovitz House. The family settled here in 1882 when Zichron was in Zamaran. He worked as a master carpenter. Some of his woodcarvings can be seen in the synagogue and the Aarohnsohn home.

 

HaMeyasdim St. now leads to a pedestrian walkway, known as the Midrahov. With its cobbled road, old-fashioned lamp posts, restored homes, restaurants, galleries and boutiques, it is a delightful place to walk along.

 

The first building on the right of the walkway is the home of the Aaronsohn family, built in the 1880s. Their address is 40 Hameyasdim St. Adjacent to the family home is Aaron Aaronsohn’s home and the NILI museum. The entrance to the museum is from the alleyway.

 

The museum is open Sunday to Thursday 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. and Friday 9.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. Admission is 37 NIS for adults, 25 NIS for children and 18 NIS for seniors. Regular tours are given in Hebrew or English that last for 50 minutes. The tour includes the museum and the two Aaronsohn homes.

 

The Aaronsohns were financially secure and were able to bring their furniture from Romania. Their china is laid out as if everyone is soon arriving for dinner. Their son Aaron was a talented botanist whose training in France was supported by the Baron. He discovered a wild wheat from which other domesticated wheats evolved. The visit to the museum includes audiovisual presentations, photos, letters and documents, and the secret escape tunnel used by the members of Nili in Aaron’s home. One can also visit the nearby cemetery in which Sarah was buried (not part of the tour). This is the contact number for the museum 04 639 0120, and this is their website.

https://nili-museum.org.il/nili-centenary/

 

You will pass the water reservoir known as Brechat Binyamin. Note its elaborate exterior. It was built by the Baron and it stored water pumped from a nearby spring. Because it was higher than the surrounding buildings, this enabled everyone to have running water and before the rest of Palestine.

The pedestrian mall or Midrahov

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The home of the Aarohnson family built in the 1880s is part of the Nili Museum compound. The home to the left is that of Aaron Aarohnson.

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The Binyamin Pool was built in 1891 by Baron Edmond de Rothschild and provided water from a nearby spring that was pumped to this reservoir. It became a social gathering place.

At the corner of HaMeyasdim and HaNadiv Streets is the Ohel Yaakov Synagogue. This was constructed by the Baron in 1886 and is named after his father. The builders were German Templers from Haifa. A clock with Hebrew letters instead of numbers sits high on the pink-stucco façade. The stucco obscures the original stone, which is visible only in the pointed arches over the entrances and windows. A plethora of stars shine from the dark blue ceiling of the basilica-like interior. Formerly, men and women entered through a single door and the Torah was read near the Ark. Later, separate entrances for men and women were created and the bima was moved to the center. Four times a year, a memorial service is held for the baron and baroness, Adelaide de Rothschild. The synagogue is still in regular use.   

 

The First Aliyah Museum is also on HaNadiv St. This building was formerly the offices of the administrator for the settlement and was the grandest Jewish building in Palestine in its time. The Baron would also stay here during his visits. It was restored and reconstructed in 1999.  It is now a museum about the First Aliyah from 1882 to 1903 and is certainly worth a visit.

 

There are a number of museums about the First Aliyah, but this and the museum in Rishon LeZion have the most to say and the most effective way of saying it. It provides a self-guided walk through the history of the settlement. Most impressive about this museum are short movies that act out the story of one family who came on aliya during this period. It starts with their optimistic departure from Eastern Europe, their despair when confronted with all the difficulties, the supercilious and dictatorial attitude of the Baron’s administrator, and the tension when the family were told to sign over all their properties to the Baron. Finally, there is a beautiful movie relating the success of this venture. There are explanations and large photos throughout the museum. All the exhibit explanations are in Hebrew and English and the movies can be viewed in either language (ask at the desk how to do this if you are viewing the exhibits on your own).

 

The museum is open Monday to Thursday from 9.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. and Friday 9.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m. It is closed Shabbat and Sunday. Admission is 15 NIS for children 5 to 18 and for seniors and 25 NIS for adults. Tours are available in Hebrew and English. It is advised to book a tour in advance. Their phone number is 04 629 4777/888. This is their website:

 

The Tiyul Gardens is a nicely landscaped although not exciting garden. It was begun by the Baron’s clerks in 1886 when they planted trees outside their building and their gardener then extended it by planting more trees, shrubs and ornamental flowers. With the encouragement of the Baron, it was made available to the rest of the settlement. There are shaded benches and picnic benches and a children’s play area.

 

You can also book in advance a tour of the Carmel Winery. From the First Aliya Museum turn right on HaNadiv St and this will take you to Visitor Center at Carmel Winery on Derech HaYakov St. All tours are for adults only (ages 18 and up) except for a family tour. Tours are by appointment only and are subject to availability. The winery is open Sunday to Thursday 9:00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. and Friday 9:00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m. For booking tours in WhatsApp messages only Yuval-052-667-7031. See their website for further booking details. Other wineries in Zichron Ya’akov or not far from here include Tishbi Winery, Binyamina Winery, Sorek Estate Winery and Arens Winery.

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The Tiyul Garden 

The Ohel Yaakov Synagogue

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The First Aliya Museum is housed in the former administrative building for the settlement. It was restored and rebuilt in 1999.

The Nili spy organization

 

A major factor in the victory of the British over the Ottomans in World War I can be ascribed to the Australian cavalry charge at the Battle of Beersheba. This was also the last cavalry charge in world history. The Zionists Chaim Weizmann and Sir Herbert Samuel are also credited with influencing the issuing of the Balfour Declaration by the British government. Yet neither of these might have happened without the espionage activities of Aaron Aaronsohn and his Nili spy organization. Their activities are not well known because, as befits any spy organization, everything they did was performed in secret, and there is also little documentation of their activities. Moreover, the leaders of Nili died before their vision of a Jewish state came to fruition. And last, but not least, their activities were controversial within the Yishuv and were not coordinated with the main Zionist organization. Nevertheless, there is now general agreement that their espionage efforts had considerable influence on both these events.

 

Nili is an acronym for the Biblical phrase in Hebrew netzakh yisrael lo yeshaker, meaning the Eternal One of Israel will not lie. This was initially a password used by Nili. This spy organization was active after the onset of World War I between 1915 to 1917. Aaron was the political mastermind for the organization. Because of his botanical work and reputation, he was able to travel between countries without suspicion, including to the British in Egypt. His sister Sarah did the groundwork in Palestine for their spy ring, and she recruited a group of some 20 relatives and friends from Zichron Ya’acov and Hadera, all of whom were young Jews in their 20s.

 

The Ottomans were allied with the Germans in World War 1. Members of Nili surmised that a Jewish state was unlikely to come to fruition under the Ottomans (Herzl had already unsuccessfully attempted this). Sarah Aaronsohn also saw firsthand evidence of the Turkish Armenian massacre and regarded it possible that the Turks would perform a similar massacre against the Jewish population in Palestine.

 

It made considerable sense for the British to attempt to break through the Ottoman lines through Palestine. If the British could be assisted in doing this, they might in return bestow upon the Jews a Jewish state. The British probably encouraged Nili in this thinking. The downside was that if Nili was discovered this could put the entire Yishuv at risk from the Turkish response. The Turks had already demonstrated extreme cruelty by committing genocide in Armenia. There was no Jewish leadership at that time in Palestine that opposed them, but they had little general support for their activities from the other Jewish settlements.

 

It is generally recognized that they were a very effective spy organization and provided Britain with vital information about Turkish military preparations. This included the location of Turkish troops in Beersheba, which enabled General Allenby to make a surprise attack on its fort. Aaron’s research laboratory on the coast at Atlit was used as Nili’s base, and was conveniently located for providing sea pick-ups of couriers and agents.

 

Raymond Savage, a top aide to General Allenby, reported later that General Allenby’s victory in Palestine “was very largely the daring work of young spies, most of them natives of Palestine, which enabled the Field Marshal to accomplish his undertaking so effectively.” General Gilbert Clayton claimed that “we owe the lives of 30,000 soldiers to the Nili.”

 

It is also telling that at the time the Balfour Declaration was decided upon by the British cabinet, two individuals were invited to be on hand in an anteroom. One was Chaim Weitzman and the other was Aaron Aaronsohn. On the other hand, the Arabs were also given an understanding of statehood by Lawrence of Arabia who was aware and supportive of the activities of Nili.

 

The Nili group was exposed when one of their homing pigeons landed in the house of the Turkish governor in Caesarea. Aaron’s sister went into hiding, but her location was revealed. After days of torture, during which she refused to divulge information about the group, she was permitted to go home to change before being taken to her death in Turkey. She went to a slik in Aaron’s home and took out a revolver, went to the bathroom and shot herself. She died a few days later. All the members of the group were rounded up. Two were sentenced to death. Another member, Avshalom Feinberg, who had originally envisaged the idea of an espionage organization, had previously been killed by Bedouin in the Sinai desert while attempting to make his way to British-held Cairo.

 

Aaron survived the war. He was active in promoting the terms of the Balfour declaration. However, he died in an air accident in 1919 on his way to the Paris Peace Conference at the invitation of Chaim Weitzman. It was this conference that determined the parameters of the peace treaties of World War I.

 

For many years the selfless efforts of Nili were ignored by Zionist leaders. There was also no one influential to push their narrative. However, this has changed and their contribution to the state is now generally recognized. The Nili Museum was established in 1956, appropriately adjacent to the Aaronsohn family home.

Nearby places of interest

Ramat Hanadiv is adjacent to Zichron Ya’akov. Its superb gardens are definitely worth a visit and are described on our webpage “The beautiful formal gardens of Ramat Hanadiv.” Also, at Ramat Hanadiv are two hikes that are very appropriate for families. These are described on our webpage “Two family hikes in Ramat Hanadiv.” Hanadiv Farm is by the entrance to Ramat Hanadiv, although it is not part of the Ramat Hanadiv estate. It is advertised as an experiential farm for the whole family, where you can spend time with your children in nature, taste natural fruits and vegetables, help the farm staff take care of the greenhouses, pet and feed farm animals, create surprising creations in the creative area, and enjoy the peace and quiet. The village of Old Bat Shlomo is only a short car ride from Zichron Ya’akov and is described on our webpage “The moshava of Old Bat Shlomo.”

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Yishai Gate functions as a symbolic gateway to the town's historic center

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Ceramic frieze displaying the founders of Zichron Ya'akov at the Yad LeMeyasim Garden.

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Early picture of the town on the door of the museum at Yad LeMeyasdim memorial garden

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Entrance to the cemetry

Links to the best family activities, hikes and historic sites in the GOLAN, EASTERN GALILEE, UPPER GALILEE, LOWER GALILEE, JORDAN VALLEY & LAKE KINNERET, the SHEFELAH, TEL AVIV-YAFFO and surroundings, NORTH of TEL AVIV, and SOUTH of TEL AVIV.

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