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 Caesarea National Park 

Caesarea is one of the more important tourist sites in Israel. It provides a window into the values of the Roman Empire, their clash with Jewish values, and the enthusiastic and megalomaniac vassal king of Rome, Herod the Great. For Christians, Caesarea has significance with respect to the beginnings of Christianity. With some preparation, it is possible to make this partially reconstructed city come to life in a meaningful way in just a few hours. If you have time, there are also other sites in Caesarea worth visiting.  â€‹

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The first issue that needs your consideration is through which admission gate to enter. There is the main northern parking area and an eastern parking lot. Waze will direct you to the main parking area adjacent to the main entrance. This leads to the restaurants and cafes, the museum, and the harbor, and is open until late. The eastern entrance closes at 4.00 p.m. or 5 p.m. depending on the season. My advice is to start from the eastern entrance for a number of reasons. There are movies by the entrance that describe the history of Caesarea. This way you have an historical perspective on your visit. Make sure, though, that you have the show times figured out in your language or you will spend time hanging around. Most of the important sites, other than the harbor, are also closer to this entrance. For these reasons, this is the way this webpage is set up. On the other hand, if you are ready for lunch or you are anxious to see the movie about the p;ersonal life of Herod in the museum, then the other entrance is more appropriate.

 

Herod built a number of cities and buildings to curry favor with his subjects and to project his grandeur and power. For the Jews he rebuilt the Temple and the Temple Mount and also improved the structure of the Cave of Machpelah in Hebron. For the Samaritans he built the city of Sebastes. For the pagans on the coastal plain he built the port and city of Caesarea. He named this city after his friend and promotor, Augustus Caesar, the Caesar of Rome. His real name was Octavian. Augustus means divine in Latin, as does Sebastes. The Temple he built here was to the god-king Augustus and to Roma, the goddess of Rome, and the harbor was similarly named Sebastes.   

 

The harbor of Sebastos was one of the most impressive harbors in antiquity, rivaling that of Cleopatra’s harbor in Alexandria. It was the only large port between Alexandria in Egypt and ports in Syria, and Caesarea became a major center of trade. The breakwaters for the harbor became submerged after several centuries, although some repairs were done in the Crusader period.

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Conceptually, there are two groups of buildings that between them cover much of Caesarea. One linked group consists of the Promontory Palace, the theater and the hippodrome. The Promontory Palace was an audacious project, extending almost into the sea, and this is where Herod would entertain his important guests. The theater was where audiences would come from near and far to be entertained and from where Herod could display his political power. The hippodrome was designed for chariot racing, and was also used for athletic competitions. Later in history it was converted into an auditorium for gladiator fights and the fighting of wild beasts. The theater and hippodrome were built in 10/9 BCE for the 192nd Olympiad, and this event continued every four years.

 

The other grouping is that of the harbor and temple. The temple platform had projecting wings to its north and south that embraced the inner harbor and made it into one unit. They were linked by a monumental staircase. The temple was pulled down in 400 CE and only its foundations remain.

DirectionsEnter into Waze “Caesarea National Park.” This will bring you to the parking area by the main entrance. If you wish to see the movie at Time Treck first, park in the eastern parking lot. Enter “חניון מזרחי קיסריה “ into Waze.

Admission: : The park is open from 8.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and Saturday and 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. on Friday during the summer. The park closes one hour earlier in the winter. There is an admission charge. The harbor is open every day until the late-night hours but payment is only during normal operating hours. This enables you to use the restaurants into late. The Harbor Visitor Center is open from 8.30 a.m. until 1 hour before the park closes. Their phone number is 04 626 7080. This is their website.

Public transport: Enter “Caesarea National Park” into Moovit. There is a close bus stop at Sedot Yam. There is also a bus from Tzomet Binyamina to the park. Otherwise, it is about a 2.5-Km/31-minute walk.

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Ruins of the harbor.

This webpage focuses on 6 areas in this order – 1. Time Treck with its movie; 2. The theater;  3. The Promontory Palace; 4. The administrative buildings by the palace; 5. The hippodrome; 6. The temple platform; 7. The Caesarea Harbor Visitors’ Center, which includes a movie;  and 8. The Harbor. For other areas on this site, see the brochure.

 

  • Be sure to request a brochure with a map. The map in the Hebrew brochure happens to be the best map; the aerial map in the English brochure is confusing.

 

  • Head to the Time Treck in its own separate building just beyond the rest rooms at the southern entrance/exit of the park. However, The “Caesarea Experience” display has not yet been opened to visitors.

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  • Walk to the partially restored Roman theater. Any self-respecting Roman city had to have a theater, and Herod’s was no exception.

 

The theater was an integral part of a Roman city. It provided entertainment and was also used for public functions. This is where the people of Caesarea would be entertained with comedies, pantomimes, choral events, and public events. It is unlikely that more intellectual presentations, such as Greek tragedies, were shown. As for television nowadays, this is how Roman culture diffused into the empire. This is the oldest and best-preserved theater in Israel and accommodated 3,500 to 4,000 spectators. Layers show multiple phases: Herodian, Roman, Byzantine, and later restorations. The theater follows standard Roman theater layout with semi-circular rows of seating carved partly into bedrock and partly built up with vaulting, an orchestra, which was a semi-circular performance space for musicians or officials, and a scaenae frons (stage façade), a three-story high wall built with tall pillars that served as the stage background.

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Excavations uncovered inscriptions, including the famous Pilate inscription mentioning Pontius Pilate. This is the only contemporary archaeological reference to his existence. He was the Roman prefect of Judea who presided over the trial of Jesus and ordered his crucifixion.

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The partially reconstructed Roman theater 

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The Roman theater as shown in the movie in the Time Treck.

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A model of a plaque found in secondary use with the wording:*Pontius Pilatus, the prefect of Judaea; erected a building dedicated to the emperor Tiberius."

  • Now head to the Reef or Promontory Palace.

 

The person who built this palace on a reef premonitory that projected into the sea was clearly someone with grandiose ideas for whom nature was only an obstacle to be overcome. The palace had two sections – an Upper Palace and Lower Palace. The Lower Palace was on the reef and has been worn away by sea exposure, but the outlines of its swimming pool can be made out. Water for the pool was fed from an aqueduct to the city. East of the pool was a two-storied building with a central dining room looking out onto the pool.

 

A staircase led to the Upper Palace further inland. This has been preserved more because it was not battered by waves and became covered with sand. Unlike the Lower Palace it had more public functions, namely judicial, administrative, and the reception and entertainment of dignitaries. This all changed towards the end of the Roman period when the Upper Palace was partitioned into private dwellings. It was totally abandoned at the end of the Byzantine period.

 

It is likely that Paul of Tarsus was imprisoned here before he was transferred to Rome. One can descend into a room which may have functioned as a prison. If so, this is probably where Paul was held.

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The outline of the palace pool can be clearly seen carved out of the bedrock

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This could well be the prison room in which John the Baptist was incarcerated.

  • Walk towards the hippodrome. You can hardly miss it as it is 450 meter long. You can either walk along the path by the seafront or walk by the ruins of the Roman bathhouse.

 

This hippodrome was built was built by Herod and was used for chariot and horse racing and sports. Hippos is a Greek word meaning horse and dromos is Greek for course. These activities were very popular in the Roman world and would have been part of the city’s cultural and social life for residents and visitors. The hippodrome was oval in shape with tiered seating and had a central barrier adorned with statues and obelisks. Each race was seven laps and concluded in front of the officials’ tribune.

 

Towards the end of the Roman period, the southern end of the hippodrome was converted into a round amphitheater, presumably to meet a popular demand for blood sports. An amphitheater was a round, smaller structure used for gladiator contests and games with wild animals. A good example of an amphitheater is in Beit Guvrin. The hungry animals would have been kept in underground cages in the center of the amphitheater before they were released. Herod would not have built anything like this since these types of blood sports were totally un-Jewish.

 

It is recorded that after the Jewish Revolt of 70 CE, 2,500 captives were slaughtered in gladiatorial games in Caesarea and this is likely where they took place. We also know that Rabbi Akiva was executed during the Hadrianic persecutions in Caesarea for teaching Torah. He was tortured before his death with iron combs flaying his skin and he died with the words of the shema prayer on his lips. It is likely that he was executed in either the hippodrome or its amphitheater section.

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The spectators' stand of the hippodrome.

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Entering the Harbor area through the Crusader Gate.

  • Continue down the steps to the harbor area for a splendid view of the sea front. You can also walk along the promontory that projects into the sea.

 

How did he do it? How did Herod’s builders take an open area of seafront and convert it into a deep-sea inner and outer harbor. They first made two 500-yard breakwaters with the entrance to the harbor between them. They used an unusual form of cement made from a special type of volcanic ash, which they imported from Italy, and which was mixed with slaked lime. This type of cement could harden even in water. He also used a local kurkar stone as ruble. To make the northern breakwater, carpenters constructed bottomless wooden crates which were floated out to sea. The crates sank to the seafloor and its corners were staked down. It was then filled with cement and ruble until it rose above sea level. The southern breakwater was in a more exposed position regarding the sea and barges filled with the concrete were sunk on location.

 

Warehouses were built on the breakwaters, as well as promenades that gave access to ships in the harbor basin. Herod’s engineers also built an outer breakwater to diminish the force of the sea. The harbor took 12 years to build and was named Sebastes after the Emperor Augustus.

So where are these breakfronts today?  Over several centuries they submerged and fell apart, particularly by the 3rd and 4th centuries CE. Several reasons have been proposed. The sand on which it was built was liable to shifting. Major regional earthquakes, especially in the 2nd to 4th centuries CE, damaged the breakwaters and quays. The Israeli coast naturally experiences tectonic sinking and shifting sands.

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When the Crusaders captured the city in 1101 CE, they carried out limited repairs, although not to its original scale. They thereby turned it iinto a minor working port for local trade, military supply and pilgrim landings.

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The deep sea port as shown in the Time Treck. movie

Caesarea and its Christian and Jewish associations

 

Caesarea was once a sleepy Jewish village known as Stratton’s Tower. It was part of the Phoenician trading empire and was conquered by the Hasmoneans in the 1st century BCE. When the Roman Empire annexed Judea in 63 BCE, it was declared an autonomous city. Despite its beginnings as a Jewish village, it gradually became predominantly non-Jewish. Between 25 to 13 BCE, Herod the Great decided to build a Greco-Roman city here that would be as Roman as any anything the Roman Empire could offer, down to the last temple. As for any major Roman city, it had fresh running water brought by aqueducts, baths, a theater, a hippodrome and a deep-sea harbor on a coastline that had no natural barriers for such a port.

 

When Herod died, administration of the country passed to Roman officials, including the Roman procurator Antonius Felix and prefect Pontius Pilatus. It was logical that Caesarea would now become the capital of the country and its administrative center, rather than Jerusalem. It became the largest city in Judea. It was predominantly non-Jewish, although there was a Jewish community here.

 

During the Byzantine period, the city continued to enlarge and it became an important center for Christianity. During the Byzantine and early Islamic periods, Jewish communities lived in and around the city. A synagogue is among the ruins found in Caesarea to the north of the northern exit, and this might well have been the location of the Jewish Quarter. 

 

Caesarea is very much linked to the early development of Christianity. Of the 12 apostles, Peter in particular had a considerable influence on the spread of Christianity. According to the New Testament, while in Jaffa and staying at the home of Simon the Tanner he had a vision: “He saw heaven opened and something like a large sheet being let down to earth by its four corners. It contained all kinds of four-footed animals, as well as reptiles and birds. Then a voice told him, “Get up, Peter. Kill and eat.” “Surely not, Lord!” Peter replied. “I have never eaten anything impure or unclean.” The voice spoke to him a second time, “Do not call anything impure that God has made clean.” This happened three times, and immediately the sheet was taken back to heaven” (Acts 10:11-16).

 

Following this vision, Peter received messengers to visit a Roman centurion in Caesarea called Cornelius. Cornelius had also received a vision from God: “Suddenly a man in shining clothes stood before me and said, ‘Cornelius, God has heard your prayer and remembered your gifts to the poor. Send to Joppa for Simon who is called Peter. He is a guest in the home of Simon the tanner, who lives by the sea.’” Peter explained to those gathered in Caesarea about the resurrection of Jesus and they were all baptized.

 

This story is important because it shows the movement of early Christianity beyond its Jewish roots and Jewish law. These visions were announcing that Christianity is as much as for the gentiles as for the Jews and that both can abandon the Jewish dietary laws designed to increase individual holiness. Despite this story, there is considerable evidence that the early Jewish Christians never abandoned their practice of Jewish law, although they accepted gentiles who were not willing to accept Jewish law.

 

Paul was imprisoned in Caesarea for 2 years (around 57 to 59 CE) as described in Acts. He was tried before Roman governors. It is possible that he was kept in a dungeon in the Upper Palace, After the Herodian period an underground cistern was converted into a prison. A courtroom was also built nearby. This area has been identified and excavated and can be visited.

 

Following his trial, Paul exercised his right as a Roman citizen to be tried in Rome. He was shipwrecked on the way in Malta but reached Rome where he was put under house arrest. While in Rome he continued to preach the message. Tradition and early Christian writings suggest that he was eventually put on trial in Rome and executed as part of the persecution of early Christians.

 

According to the historian Josephus, the Great Revolt against Rome in 66CE began in Caesarea and was provoked by the Greeks sacrificing birds in front of a local synagogue. Caesarea became a battleground and Jews would be massacred by the Roman governor early in the revolt.

 

Caesarea fell to Muslim forces in the 7th century CE and declined as a port city. It was conquered by Baldwin I in the First Crusade in 1101 and remained under Crusader control until 1187, and again between 1191 and 1265. The city was mainly neglected during the Ottoman period. In 1952 the Jewish town of Caesarea was established 1-2 km north of the ruins of the old city, and its ancient ruins were incorporated into a newly-created Caesarea National Park in 2011.

HEROD THE GREAT

 

(From my book "In and Around Jerusalem for Everyone. The Best Walks, Hikes and Outdoor Pools")

 

Herod ruled Judea, Samaria and the Galilee from 37 to 4 BCE. Most of his Jewish subjects hated him. Nevertheless, it is possible to see both positive and negative aspects to his reign. Many of these would impact the Jewish people well after his death.

 

Herod succeeded in bringing prosperity to a favored semi-independent province of Rome. He was genuinely concerned about the welfare and religious freedom of his Jewish subjects, and Judaism was able to flourish under the leadership of sages such as Hillel and Shammai. He rebuilt the Temple, and this magnificent edifice brought knowledge of monotheism to the entire Roman world. This encouraged conversions to Judaism and laid the ground for the proselytizing of the early Christians. 

On the other hand, he delivered his country to Rome and destroyed any hope of Jewish independence. He eliminated all members of the Hasmonean dynasty even when they were his own flesh and blood. His appointment of high priests diminished the prestige of the priesthood and encouraged corruption. The large sums of money flowing into his kingdom aggravated social tensions.  

 

Attempting to analyze his psychological state also leads in contradictory directions. He was a cruel and vindictive egomaniac. Yet these same attributes enabled him to keep a tight lid on Jewish aspirations for independence, maintain peace throughout his reign, and bring fame and wealth to his kingdom. 

 

He was raised as a Jew in Rome. His father, Antipater, was from a noble family in Idumaea who had converted to Judaism with his family when the Maccabees conquered Idumaea and forcibly converted the population. Herod's mother was Nabatean. Many in his kingdom regarded him as no more than half-Jewish.  

 

The Hasmoneans destroyed their own dynasty, and with it hopes for Jewish independence when the two sons of Alexander Yannai engaged in a civil war for kingship. This struggle allowed Antipater to take control of Judea by becoming an advisor to one of the brothers, Hyrcanus, and by strongly allying Hyrcanus' kingdom with Rome. Antipater was poisoned, but Herod would follow the devious machinations of his father and his strong pro-Roman policies.

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When the Parthians invaded Judea and defeated the legions of Rome, Antigonus, a nephew of Hyrcanus, reopened the previous rift in the family by allying with the Parthians and taking over Jerusalem. Hyrcanus accepted the situation, but Herod, who by now had a governmental role, escaped to Rome and persuaded his childhood friend Mark Anthony to appoint him king of the Jews with the intention of realigning the Jewish kingdom with Rome. The Roman Senate ratified his appointment. Herod then raised an army and spent the next 3 years fighting Antigonus until he succeeded in conquering Jerusalem. Antigonus was beheaded and his supporters were massacred.

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Following the assassination of Julius Cesar, Mark Anthony and Octavian vied for power, and in the Battle of Actium the forces of Mark Anthony were defeated and Mark Anthony committed suicide. Octavian renamed himself Augustus and began the process of changing Rome from a republic to an empire. Herod had been the protégé of Mark Anthony but he ingratiated himself with Augustus who saw the usefulness of such a ruthless person and a close friendship developed between them. This close friendship was advantageous to both during Herod's 34-year reign.

 

Herod maintained his close connections to Rome by adopting the ways of a Roman aristocrat. His palaces displayed the best of Roman décor and he entertained guests to Herodium in his theater and fed them with the finest of imported foods and wines. 

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To satisfy his egomania and curry favor with his subjects, Herod began building on a lavish scale. The best technological building skills of the Roman Empire were brought to his kingdom. For the Jews, he built a tomb over the Cave of Machpela, the site where the Jewish patriarchs and matriarchs were buried, and rebuilt the Temple. Jews from throughout the Empire flocked to its precincts. Its construction was one of the wonders of the Roman world and Jerusalem became famous as a tourist site, even for non-Jews. For the pagans in his kingdom, he built Sabastia in Samaria and the port of Caesarea.

 

His personal life was a shamble. He was fond of women and had 10 wives. He married Miriam, a granddaughter of the Maccabean Hyrcanus, to provide legitimacy to his rule. However, he was paranoid, perhaps with some justification, of a Hasmonean attempt to return to power. He appointed Miriam's brother, Aristobulus III, as High Priest, but when Aristobulus flaunted his popularity Herod invited him to his winter palace in Jericho and drowned him in a pool. He genuinely loved Miriam, but she was associated with a palace intrigue and he had her put to death. Whether Mariamne was actually guilty of conspiring against Herod or if she was framed due to Herod's paranoia is a matter of historical debate. There are no contemporary records that definitively establish her guilt or innocence, and much of what we know about her comes from later historical accounts. His two sons by Miriam were also suspected of treachery and were strangled.

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Following his death, no ruler after him was able to replicate his ability to create some form of modus vivendi between Jewish and Roman culture. Not his son Herod Archelaus who reigned after him, but who was fired by Augustus for cruelty and divisiveness. And not the Roman procurators appointed by Rome who lacked the sensitivity to dampen the messianic yearnings of the Jewish people. Within 74 years of his death the Jews had revolted against Rome in the Great Revolt of 70 CE. The glorious Temple he had erected was destroyed and the Jerusalem he had helped beautify was burned to the ground. 

OTHER SITES OF INTEREST IN CAESAREA

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The Ralli Museums

 

The Ralli Museums consist of two adjacent buildings and are aimed, together with three other Ralli museums in Uruguay, Chile and Spain to disseminate knowledge of contemporary Latin American art. Together, they form one of the most culturally significant art complexes in Israel (see The Ralli Museums in Caesarea).

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Beaches and waterpark in Caesarea

 

Caesarea has 15 beaches. Two particularly worthy of consideration are the beach within Caesarea National Park and Hof Shonit. A swim in the park can, of course, be conveniently combined with the rest of the archeological park and can be a nice incentive for the kids.

 

This beach is in a calm cove in the ancient harbor. It has a lifeguard on duty in season, showers, chairs and umbrellas. There is no extra charge other than the park admission. Restrooms are those for the entire park and are close by. The closest entrance is via the northern entrance to the park. 

 

A popular beach is Hof Shonit or Reef Beach. It has a lifeguard, restrooms and cold showers, a refreshment stand, restaurant, and structures providing shade.

 

There is also the nearby Neve Yam Waterpark with jacuzzies, large waterslides, children’s world with slide and pools for toddlers, lawn, and sun beds. There is an admission charge. The phone number for the waterpark is 04 984 1885.  This is their Hebrew website:

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The Caesarea Antiquity Museum and The Anna Szenes House

 

These two museums are in Kibbutz Sdot Yam. Anna Szenes was a member of the kibbutz.

 

The Antiquity Museum features an extensive collection of archaeological finds from Roman, Byzantine, and Crusader periods. It houses unique artifacts discovered by kibbutz members and in local excavations, including marble statues, ancient coins, pottery, sarcophagi, and mosaics. There is also a large Roman-style courtyard with columns, capitals, sarcophagi, large marble statutes, and architectural findings from Caesarea and the surrounding area.

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The Anna Szenes House is dedicated to commemorating the character and story of poet and parachutist Anna Szenes. The exhibition which includes a movie, tells her story starting from her rich, privileged childhood in Budapest, her immigration to the Land of Israel, her time spent in Israel in Nahalal and Sdot Yam, her enlistment in the British Army, and her mission in Hungary, which resulted in her capture and death. Finally, her funeral procession in Israel.

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Tickets are available for either museum or a combined ticket for both. The museums is usually open Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday from 10:00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. However, it is recommended to check for current operating hours as they may vary. Their phone number is 04 636 4548. This is their website:

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